Spain – Totana (En)

We went to Totana, in Murcia, to avoid the coast and because we saw it was in the Sierra Espuña Natural Park. It’s a small and very simple town, but it has a historic centre with 17th-century monuments and stately homes from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Where to stay

We stayed at Camperstop Sierra Espuna (37.792801, -1.51031 lat, long), a campervan area with everything you need. It costs €11 per day and €3 for electricity. We had electricity only for two days. There’s a common area with armchairs and a table, books, a washing machine and dryer (€3 each), and a Unixex shower for €1 for 5 minutes. The shower has hot water but low pressure. The toilet is clean, but there’s no toilet paper. Outside the common area is the dishwashing area, with freezing water. The filling and emptying point is easy to access, and there’s drinking water throughout the area. There are also trash cans. The area has beautiful views of the natural park and plenty of sunshine. There’s a lookout point with a barbecue and a clothesline. In the mornings, around 9 am, a baker comes by selling bread, croissants, and other pastries. It’s 2.5 km from the village. It took us about 5 minutes on the motorbike. I recommend it for hiking in the mountains and visiting the village. Plus, the people were very friendly, and we made several friends.

What to see

We went on the motorbike and parked in the city centre at Pilar Bridge. A bridge that separates the old town from the modern area. It was a shame that it was completely dry.

To the left of the bridge is the historic centre, where the first thing you encounter is a square with the tourist office. We tried to go inside, but no one was there. When I mentioned this at the town hall, they told me the woman must have stepped out for a moment. Above the square is the Parish Church of Santiago, comprised of several chapels whose construction began around 1580. Its tower, built in the 17th century, is particularly noteworthy. It is currently topped with 19th-century Neo-Gothic battlements. Beneath them, you can see ceramic gargoyles made by local potters. It’s a shame we couldn’t see the inside of the church, as it only opens at 9:00 a.m.

Next to the church is the 16th-century Town Hall. It was remodelled in the 19th century and restored in 1990. The wooden ceilings on the top floor and the vaulted cellars are still preserved.

Right across from the church, you’ll find a very cool modernist building. We asked about it and were told it was the Contribution House, built in the early 20th century. The building is decorated with mouldings, garlands, and imposts. Outside the Tax House is the Fountain of Juan de Uzeta, an 18th-century Baroque work, unique in the region. We were told it’s made of marble and black and red jasper.

From there, we took a good uphill walk to reach the Hermitage of St. Joseph, built at the end of the 17th century and restored a few decades ago. The hermitage is located at the top of the village, overlooking the Sierra de Espuña mountain range and the Totana valley, where excellent quality fruit is grown.

We went back down to the Pilar bridge, where we had left the motorbike, and came across a statue dedicated to the first potter.

We left Totana and went to Santa Pola, a charming coastal town on the Costa Blanca that our friends Ralf and Gaby had recommended we visit. We really liked Santa Pola, and you can see it in the next blog post.